In Progress: Burda Coat 7855

Over a year ago I bought wool fabric, lining and this Butterick pattern, intending to make a first attempt at constructing a coat.

As usually happens, other projects were deemed a higher priority, so my poor coat fabric was stored away for another day.

This year, I really need a new coat. When I started prepping my pattern, I realized the the largest size included in this pattern envelope would need to be enlarged -- by quite a bit on almost every pattern piece. That would require a lot of redrafting on a garment style I haven't made before. Not a challenge I wanted to tackle just yet.

My first plan was to look for the same pattern in an envelope with a larger group of sizes, hoping to morph the top of one with the bottom of the other ... but I was out of luck.

Next, I searched through the pattern books at my local JoAnn Fabrics for a similar style and found this coat pattern, Burda 7855.

It has classic lines, princess seams and a center back seam. The collar is slightly different.

But the best part is that the multi-sized pattern is much closer to the sizes I need. I'll still need to make some adjustments, but I'm less worried about distorting the proportions of the coat.

I decided to make View B, the shorter version of the coat, without the trim on the waist and cuffs.

This is my first time sewing a Burda pattern. Before getting started, 

I visited PatternReview.com to get any hints or tips; I found only one review of this pattern, a favorable one. Searching the message boards, I noticed a reference to The Great Coat Sew-Along - it was a sew-along during 2008-09. The group blog is still up and is jammed full of information on constructing a coat. What a great reference!

I've made a first attempt at a muslin version of the coat, using the largest size in the pattern. Just as I expected, the notched collar was a bit of a challenge, since I've never made one before. The pattern instructions are pretty clear, I just had to read them a few times before I understood them. Everything else progressed fairly smoothly.

Overall, the first muslin version of the coat turned out okay. I've made some adjustments up and down and am in the process of cutting and sewing a second muslin before I cut into the wool. Hopefully, I'll be able to finish this before it gets too cold - and while I still have time to do my Christmas sewing.

Update: Unfortunately, this project had to be put away for the holidays and has never been completed. It's one of my UFOs.